A Winter Day at the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

Skiers at the Dunes Overlook
Skiers at the Dunes Overlook


I’ve lived in the Traverse City area for more than 30 years, but the beauty of this region still has the power to amaze me. Last week, for instance, I spent a day hanging out at the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore, a place I’ve visited many times in every season of the year. Still, I was stunned by how beautiful it can be in winter.

It was one of those perfect blue winter days, of course — with the sun shining down on the snow, the sand and the water, bringing out all the best of their colors. I could hardly bring myself to leave, even with the sun getting ready to set. I have to say that Sleeping Bear’s glacier-scoured landscape of ridges, bluffs, lakes, and islands is even more appealing clothed in snow than it is in other times of the year: a wild and primeval setting for skiers, snowshoers, anglers and campers.

Hikers along the top of the Dune Climb
Hikers along the top of the Dune Climb

Although it’s barely 20 minutes west of Traverse City, the park operates at an undeniably slower pace in winter. There are few rangers in evidence, and some roads (including the popular Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive) are closed to traffic because they can’t be reliably kept clear of blowing snow and sand.

Still, but because of its linear layout, most corners of Sleeping Bear are within a few miles of the highway. And many attractions and amenities remain open all year round – including the Philip A. Hart Visitor Center in Empire, where rangers and interpreters can give you a quick rundown on what’s happening.

The visitor center also has a small museum, bookstore and auditorium, and is open in the winter from 8:15 to 4 p.m. It’s also the place where you can join one of the park’s most enjoyable winter group activities: guided snowshoe hikes. On Saturdays and Sundays in January and February, park rangers lead groups in leisurely trips to some of Sleeping Bear’s most interesting winter features. (They even provide free snowshoes for those who don’t have their own.)

A Lone Lookout in the Frozen Dunes
A Lone Lookout in the Frozen Dunes

But the best part about using snowshoes at Sleeping Bear, is that you’re free to leave the trail system pretty much whenever you want. Because the park’s soils and vegetation are easily harmed, rangers are fairly strict with hikers during most of the year — but in winter the rules are much more relaxed, and snowshoeing is allowed on all snow-covered dunes, fields, and forests.

Cross-country skiing is probably the most popular winter sport in the Lakeshore, and the park has designated several trails for Nordic skiers, from relatively flat routes like Platte Plains, Windy Moraine, Good Harbor Bay and Bay View to challenging routes like the Old Indian and Alligator Hill trails. And although the Stocking Scenic Drive is closed to auto traffic for the winter, it’s open to skiers and snowshoers alike during the winter.

Unlike some parks, Sleeping Bear does not permit snowmobiles on land or on the surface of its frozen lakes. But ice fishing on those lakes is allowed, and many anglers find winter the most rewarding time of year to visit the Lakeshore.Fish aren’t the only wildlife that’s stirring in the park in winter, either — deer, coyote, fox, porcupines and otters are active and can sometimes be spotted more easily than in summer.

Walking the Shipwreck Trail near Glen Haven
Walking the Shipwreck Trail near Glen Haven

That’s also true, strangely, of shipwrecks. Between 1835 and 1960 more than 50 ships sank offshore in the narrow strait known as the Manitou Passage; thanks to strong winds, many pieces of those long-ago wrecks wash ashore during the winter. Many beachcombers look for relics along what’s called the Shipwreck Trail, between the ghost port of Glen Haven and the shore south of Sleeping Bear Point.

An even more thrilling winter experience can be sampled at the famous Dune Climb near Glen Haven, where the Park Service allows sledding on the 260-foot face of the dune. It’s the only dune where such activities are allowed. (But bring your second-best sled — the combination of snow and windblown sand can be pretty gritty!)

Sledding at the Dune Climb
Sledding at the Dune Climb

About mikelovestc

These days, I’m the media relations guy for the Traverse City Convention & Visitors Bureau, but before that I spent 25 years as a reporter and columnist at the Traverse City Record-Eagle, a job that frequently took me out into the most remote backroads, forests, beaches and islands of the beautiful Grand Traverse Region. My strategy was pretty simple — just drive, paddle, ski or walk until you’re certain you’re lost, and then find somebody to talk to. It was a great job! I never intended to live in Traverse City. I grew up in Grand Rapids, spent four years in the Coast Guard in places like Miami Beach, Monterey and San Francisco, and when I finally graduated from college I took a summer job at the Miami Herald. To my surprise, I discovered I didn’t like the tropics nearly as much as I thought I would — and when the Record-Eagle offered me a job I took it, figuring I’d put in a year or two and head off to someplace like Seattle or Portland. What I discovered very quickly is that this place gets to you in a variety of unexpected ways. The beaches here are as lovely as anyplace else I’ve ever been, the weather is mild all year round — warm enough for swimming in September and cold enough for skiing in December — and just about the time you’re getting tired of one season you get another one every bit as pleasant. The people are laid-back and friendly, the music and arts scene is awesome, and the place still hasn’t gotten so sophisticated that a guy like me feels out of place.
This entry was posted in Leelanau, nature, Outdoor Sports, skiing, Sleeping Bear, winter and tagged , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to A Winter Day at the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore

  1. Ileana says:

    Great article with wonderful pictures. We would like to republish this article on our Dune Blog on the Sleeping Bear Dunes Visitors Bureau website with you as a guest blogger and all credits going to you. Send us an email.

  2. catherine howes says:

    Love these pic’s, I have only visited this area twice, but it is by far my favorite place. The Dunes are magical, I could stay at the overlook for the rest of my life. This coming from a true Floridian. Thanks for posting, never saw them in the winter…

  3. Nadine Jones says:

    Great photos of the home I love…. been here 58 years and still am amazed by the beauty of our area! Good articles also on the fantastic outdoor life… thanks for posting…

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